Maytag Washing Machine: not functioning

Professional Repair Guide

What is this symptom?

Is your Maytag washing machine not functioning? This issue can manifest as a completely dead unit, an unresponsive control panel, or a washer that fails to proceed past the sensing phase. Common causes include control lock activation, lid closure issues, and power supply problems. Understanding these symptoms can help you troubleshoot effectively.

Urgency: Medium

Important Tips for Maytag Models

  • Many Maytag top-load models perform a lid-lock self-test at the start: you may hear a click, the basket may turn slightly, and the lid may unlock briefly before locking again—this is normal behavior and not itself a malfunction.
  • Error code F5 E1 on some Maytag top-load washers indicates a lid lock/door switch problem; the washer may not start until the lock system is working properly.

Possible Causes

Control Lock feature enabled (controls unresponsive even though washer has power)

How to Identify: Control Lock indicator light is on; button presses do nothing; washer appears powered but unresponsive.

Part: User interface / Control Lock setting

Lid/door not fully closed, not latched, or obstruction preventing proper closure

How to Identify: Washer powers on but will not start; lid does not close flush; visible debris/soil buildup around lid strike/contact; error related to lid/door lock may appear; washer may click during self-test but fails to lock.

Part: Lid/door latch area (mechanical alignment/closure)

Failed lid lock / door lock assembly or door switch (washer cannot verify lid/door is locked)

How to Identify: Washer will not start or stops quickly; repeated clicking at lid lock; lid lock light flashes; error codes like F5 E1 (top load indicating lid lock/door switch fault; washer may fill briefly then stop depending on model.

Part: Lid lock assembly / door lock assembly / door switch

No incoming power to washer (tripped breaker/blown fuse/outlet issue) causing a dead control panel

How to Identify: No lights, no display, no response to any buttons; outlet does not power other devices; breaker/fuse tripped.

Part: Home electrical supply / outlet / breaker / fuse

Blown internal line fuse (washer has intermittent or total loss of display/controls)

How to Identify: Washer appears dead or display/timer does not work even when outlet power is good; continuity test on fuse fails (requires multimeter.

Part: Line fuse (internal)

Thermal fuse blown due to overheating condition (washer will not start)

How to Identify: Washer will not start after an overheating event; thermal fuse tests open/no continuity; may follow a history of heavy use, ventilation issues (in combo units, or motor strain.

Part: Thermal fuse

Main control board failure

How to Identify: Washer powers on but won’t respond correctly, won’t start cycles consistently, shows erratic lights, or repeatedly fails without lid lock/power issues; often diagnosed after other checks.

Part: Main control board (electronic control)

DIY Solutions

Disable Control Lock (if controls are unresponsive)

Easy 1-2 minutes
  1. Check if the Control Lock indicator light is on.
  2. Press and hold the button labeled "Control Lock" (or the designated lock button on your model) for about 3 seconds until the lock light turns off.
  3. Try starting a normal cycle again.
⚠️ Safety First: Do not force buttons; follow the control panel labeling for your model.

Resolve lid/door closure and latch issues (clean contact area and reseat lid)

Easy 5-10 minutes
Tools Needed: Soft cloth, Warm water, Mild soap
  1. Open the lid/door and inspect the latch and strike areas for detergent residue, lint, or debris.
  2. Clean the contact area with warm water, mild soap, and a soft cloth; dry thoroughly.
  3. Close the lid/door firmly to ensure it is fully seated and latched.
  4. Press Start; listen for the normal lid-lock self-test click and brief basket movement (top-load models).
⚠️ Safety First: Avoid slamming the lid/door; alignment damage can worsen latch issues.

Confirm the washer is receiving power (Maytag official no-power checks)

Easy 5-10 minutes
Tools Needed: A small appliance/device to test outlet (lamp/phone charger)
  1. Verify the washer is plugged in securely and the cord is not damaged.
  2. Test the outlet with another device to confirm it has power.
  3. Check the home breaker/fuse panel for a tripped breaker or blown fuse and reset/replace if needed.
  4. If fuses keep blowing or breakers keep tripping, stop and contact an electrician before continuing.
⚠️ Safety First: Do not repeatedly reset a breaker that immediately trips—this can indicate a dangerous electrical fault.

Check for lid lock error (e.g., F5 E1) and attempt basic lid-lock troubleshooting

Moderate 10-25 minutes
Tools Needed: Owner’s manual (model-specific), Flashlight
  1. If an error code is displayed (commonly F5 E1 on some Maytag top-load washers), note the code.
  2. Power cycle the washer by unplugging for 1 minute, then plugging back in.
  3. Ensure the lid is fully closed and nothing is obstructing the lid lock mechanism.
  4. Try starting a cycle again and observe whether the lid lock engages (audible click/lock light).
⚠️ Safety First: Do not attempt to bypass the lid lock; it is a safety device.

Professional Repairs

Replace lid lock / door lock assembly (common Maytag no-start repair)

Estimated Cost: $150 - $350

Diagnose and replace internal line fuse / thermal fuse

Estimated Cost: $120 - $300

Replace main control board (electronic control failure)

Estimated Cost: $250 - $600

When to Call a Professional

Breaker trips repeatedly or fuses repeatedly blow when attempting to run the washer (Maytag recommends electrician involvement for recurring electrical issues).
Washer shows persistent lid lock/door lock error codes (e.g., F5 E1) after cleaning and obstruction checks, indicating likely lock assembly failure.
Washer has confirmed wall power but no display/response, suggesting internal fuse, wiring, or control board failure requiring testing.
You smell burning, see smoke, or notice scorching marks near the outlet, plug, or control area (stop using immediately).

Preventive Maintenance

  • Clean lid/door latch and contact areas to remove detergent residue and debris buildup.: Lid not latching / lid lock failure-to-engage that prevents starting
    Frequency: monthly
  • Avoid overloading and distribute loads evenly to reduce strain on motor and locking/sensing cycles.: Overheating-related shutdowns, repeated sensing/lock errors, premature component wear
    Frequency: every load
  • Use the correct detergent amount (HE detergent for HE machines) to reduce residue buildup around locks and sensors.: Residue-related latch/lock issues and control problems caused by excess suds
    Frequency: every load

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is my Maytag Washing Machine not functioning?
Common causes include control lock activation, lid not fully closed, power supply issues, or a faulty lid lock.
How do I fix Maytag Washing Machine not functioning myself?
Try disabling the control lock, checking lid closure, and ensuring the washer has power.
How much does it cost to fix not functioning?
Professional repair costs range from $120 to $600 depending on the issue, like replacing the lid lock or control board.
When should I call a technician for not functioning?
If DIY troubleshooting fails or if the issue involves complex repairs like control board replacement, call a technician.

References & Sources

Community Analytical Insights

Analysis based on real user discussions from appliance repair communities

Can I Fix This Myself?

50%
DIY Success Rate Difficulty: Either

Common Issues Reported by Users

  • Motor issues (motor capacitor, motor winding) (1 mentions)
  • Belt failure (2 mentions)

User Suggested Solutions

  1. Check and replace motor capacitor and test motor winding resistance

    Success rate: 10.0%
  2. Replace agitator and belt

    Success rate: 10.0%
  3. Consider purchasing a new washer (LG or Speed Queen)

    Success rate: 20.0%
Analysis based on 4 community discussions
View Sources

Community Discussions

washer broke down

CPS repaired the washer by replacing the agitator and a belt.

Washer stopped mid-cycle, flashing lidlock light, now won't do anything but a tiny movement when plugged in.

Entered diagnostic mode after unplugging components, tested motor winding resistance, next step is to check motor capacitor.

decided to retire

Recommended to buy a Speed Queen washer for reliability.

has died

Recommendations for replacement brands include Speed Queen, LG, and Whirlpool, with a strong suggestion to avoid Samsung.

washer just died

Consider purchasing an LG washer and dryer instead of repairing the old Maytag.

Source: Reddit r/appliancerepair

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