Maytag Dryer: not drying

Professional Repair Guide

What is this symptom?

Is your Maytag dryer leaving clothes damp at the end of a cycle? This common issue often arises from restricted airflow, clogged vents, or overloaded loads. If your dryer runs but takes longer to dry clothes, it's crucial to address airflow problems and check for any maintenance needs to restore efficiency.

Urgency: Medium

Important Tips for Maytag Models

  • Maytag official troubleshooting for long dry times emphasizes that if the dryer is heating but drying takes too long, the most likely cause is vent restriction/restricted airflow, and Maytag recommends cleaning the full vent system every 1–2 years and using an exterior airflow check (compared to a hair dryer on high).
  • If Auto cycles consistently under-dry, Maytag provides a model-dependent method to change the factory dryness level to increase drying time and dryness results.

Possible Causes

Restricted airflow due to clogged/partially blocked vent system (house duct, vent hose, exterior hood) or crushed/kinked vent hose

How to Identify: Dryer seems to heat but takes much longer than usual; outside vent airflow feels weak (Maytag suggests comparing to a hair dryer on high; lint buildup visible in lint screen housing or venting; dryer area feels humid; vent hood flap doesn’t open fully during operation.

Part: Dryer exhaust vent system (lint screen, vent hose/ducting, exterior hood)

Lint screen clogged, coated with fabric softener residue, or lint screen housing blocked

How to Identify: Lint screen covered with lint or appears waxy/filmy; airflow remains weak even when the exterior vent is clear; drying improves temporarily after cleaning the screen/housing; screen fails a quick water test (water beads instead of flowing through.

Part: Lint screen and lint screen housing

Overloading, improper sorting (mixed heavy/light fabrics), or using the wrong cycle/settings (Auto Dry dryness level too low, EcoBoost enabled, or Timed Dry insufficient)

How to Identify: Large loads or mixed fabric weights come out damp; heavier items (towels/jeans stay wet while lighter items dry; dryness improves when load size is reduced, loads are sorted by fabric weight, or dryness level is increased.

Part: User load/cycle selection

Moisture sensor bars contaminated (dryer ends Auto cycle early leaving clothes damp)

How to Identify: Problem mainly occurs on Auto Dry cycles; clothes come out damp but dry normally on Timed Dry; sensor area has visible residue; wiping sensor bars improves performance.

Part: Moisture sensor bars (typically inside drum near lint filter area)

Heating system fault causing weak/no heat (electric: heating element; gas: igniter/flame sensor/gas valve coils)

How to Identify: Dryer runs but produces little/no heat; clothing remains cold/damp; exhaust air is not warm; may still tumble normally; on gas models, may ignite briefly then stop heating.

Part: Heating system (electric heating element or gas burner/ignition components)

Safety devices or temperature control failure (thermal fuse, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, thermal cut-off) leading to no heat or intermittent heat

How to Identify: Dryer may run with no heat; may stop heating after overheating event; continuity tests fail on fuse/thermostats; often occurs after vent restriction/overheating.

Part: Thermal fuse / thermostats / thermal cut-off

DIY Solutions

Test and restore airflow: clean lint screen, vent hose, and full house vent to exterior

Moderate 30-90 minutes
Tools Needed: Vacuum with hose attachment, Dryer vent brush kit (optional), Screwdriver or nut driver (for clamps), Work gloves
  1. Unplug the dryer (and shut off gas supply if gas model).
  2. Remove lint screen and clean thoroughly; vacuum lint from the lint screen housing.
  3. Pull dryer away from the wall and disconnect the vent hose; inspect for crushing, kinks, heavy lint, or moisture buildup.
  4. Vacuum and/or brush-clean the vent hose and the dryer outlet duct connection.
  5. Check outside exhaust hood: remove lint, ensure flap opens freely, and confirm strong airflow while dryer runs (Maytag suggests airflow should feel comparable to a hair dryer on high).
  6. If airflow is weak at the exterior hood, clean the entire vent run to the outside or schedule professional vent cleaning; reassemble using rigid/semi-rigid ducting when possible and keep run length within the dryer’s vent chart limits.
  7. Run a timed heat cycle and confirm improved airflow and drying performance.
⚠️ Safety First: Always disconnect power before servicing.

Increase dryness results on Auto cycles (adjust dryness level / disable EcoBoost when appropriate)

Easy 2-10 minutes
  1. If loads are consistently damp on Automatic cycles, use Maytag’s documented method to increase the factory dryness level (varies by control type/model).
  2. If using EcoBoost on compatible models, test performance with EcoBoost off (EcoBoost can reduce energy use but may extend dry time).
  3. For a single damp load, use Timed Dry and add 10–20 minutes as needed (Maytag notes Timed Dry is intended for occasional damp loads needing extra time).
⚠️ Safety First: Avoid excessive over-drying to reduce shrinkage and fabric damage; Maytag notes Timed Dry can cause shrinkage/wrinkling/static if overused.

Clean moisture sensor bars to prevent early shutoff on Auto Dry

Easy 5-10 minutes
Tools Needed: Soft cloth, Rubbing alcohol (or mild soap and water)
  1. Locate the moisture sensor bars inside the drum (often near the lint filter housing area).
  2. Wipe the bars with rubbing alcohol on a soft cloth to remove fabric softener residue and oxidation.
  3. Run an Auto Dry cycle to verify the dryer no longer ends early and clothes come out dry.
⚠️ Safety First: Unplug the dryer before cleaning internal components.

Professional Repairs

Professional dryer vent cleaning and airflow verification (including long or roof vents)

Estimated Cost: $90 - $200

Replace heating element (electric models) or service gas burner ignition system (gas models)

Estimated Cost: $100 - $350

Replace thermal fuse / high-limit thermostat / cycling thermostat / thermal cut-off kit (heat-safety circuit repair)

Estimated Cost: $150 - $350

When to Call a Professional

Airflow at the exterior vent hood is weak even after cleaning the lint screen and vent hose, suggesting blockage in the house vent run or improper/overlong vent routing.
Dryer tumbles normally but produces no heat (electric or gas), indicating likely heater/burner component failure requiring electrical/gas diagnostics.
A thermal fuse or thermostat repeatedly fails—this often indicates an unresolved airflow/overheating issue that must be corrected to prevent recurrence.
You have a gas dryer and are not comfortable disconnecting/reconnecting gas lines or verifying safe operation after service.

Preventive Maintenance

  • Clean lint screen after every load and vacuum lint from the lint screen housing regularly: Restricted airflow, long dry times, overheating
    Frequency: every load / monthly
  • Inspect vent hose behind the dryer for kinks/crushing and ensure clamps are secure: Airflow restriction and long dry times
    Frequency: every 3-6 months
  • Clean the entire vent run from dryer to exterior outlet (or hire service): Long dry times, overheating, thermal fuse trips
    Frequency: every 1-2 years (or sooner if dry times increase)
  • Wipe moisture sensor bars (Auto Dry models) to remove residue: Auto cycle ending early and leaving loads damp
    Frequency: every 3-6 months

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is my Maytag Dryer not drying?
Common causes include restricted airflow from clogged vents, a dirty lint screen, or incorrect cycle settings.
How do I fix Maytag Dryer not drying myself?
Clean the lint screen, check and clear the vent system, and adjust cycle settings to improve drying performance.
How much does it cost to fix not drying?
Professional repairs for a non-drying dryer typically range from $90 to $350 depending on the issue.
When should I call a technician for not drying?
Call a technician if DIY solutions don't work or if you suspect heating system faults or airflow issues.

References & Sources

Community Analytical Insights

Analysis based on real user discussions from appliance repair communities

Can I Fix This Myself?

100%
DIY Success Rate Difficulty: DIY

Common Issues Reported by Users

  • Clogged vent (2 mentions)
  • Faulty solenoid coil (1 mentions)
  • Broken blower wheel (1 mentions)
  • Motor failure (1 mentions)

User Suggested Solutions

  1. Check for clogged vent or broken blower wheel

    Success rate: 20.0%

  2. Replace faulty solenoid coil

    Success rate: 20.0%

  3. Check for vent obstruction and motor issues

    Success rate: 20.0%
Analysis based on 4 community discussions
View Sources

Data compiled from real discussions on r/appliancerepair and r/Appliances:

  1. Maytag commercial dryer MDG16PDDWW help
  2. Maytag dryer heating but not drying
  3. Maytag Dryer not Drying
  4. Maytag dryer stops drying mid cycle

Community Discussions

It's not drying. Gas lights initially but then shuts off and things go cold.

One of the solenoid coils had no continuity and needed replacement.

DIY View on Reddit →

heating but not drying

Check for a clogged vent or a broken blower wheel.

DIY View on Reddit →

stops drying mid cycle

Check for vent obstruction; if unhooked and runs, vent is blocked; if not, motor may be bad.

DIY View on Reddit →

Source: Reddit r/appliancerepair

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